Recipe Review: Diana Kennedy’s Lenten Beans

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I recently purchased Diana Kennedy's book Oaxaca al Gusto, a 400 page tome on the indigenous food of Oaxaca, which, in many cases, is unknown even to many Mexicans outside of these valleys. Here you will find recipes with the fundamental building blocks of the food of the region: chocolate, chiles, and corn. And, as Adriana Legaspi has argued, these meals are not just a means of nourishment, but, rather, an important way to understand how they fit within ancient traditions practiced by the community. … [Read more...]

Rockville’s La Limeña Restaurant

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Isn't it often the case that the best restaurants can be found in the most unassuming places? Down a dusty country road in the middle of nowhere.  Just off the exit of an interstate.  And in the case of Rockville, Maryland's La Limeña, toward the back of a suburban strip mall. … [Read more...]

Home is Where the Spices Are

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If you ever find yourself in Laredo, Texas, you must stop in to say hello to my new friend, Elsa Sanchez, the owner and operator of La India Packing Co., Inc. & Tasting Room Cafe. La India has been a Laredo mainstay since Elsa's grandparents founded the company in 1924. Since then, the company has grown and their products are now sold in H.E.B., Walmart, and Fiesta stores throughout Texas. Elsa’s grandfather, Antonio R. Rodriguez, learned about medicinal herbs and spices from an old Indian woman in Lampazos de Naranjo, Mexico during the Mexican Revolution when he sought remedies to treat sick and injured soldiers along the northern border.  Later, Don Antonio and his wife began selling candies and Mexican hot chocolate from their home on Marcella Avenue, the same house Elsa grew up in.  Today, the house serves as La India’s headquarters and offers customers authentic … [Read more...]

Recipe Review: Fany Gerson’s Tarta de Limón

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I feel like a lone flower blossoming in January, fooled by flukey warm weather.  You see, I’ve made a lime tart with drunken blueberries during a season belonging to heartier pies, like pumpkin and pecan.  It's a little like wearing white after Labor Day or donning a turtleneck in the dead of summer. … [Read more...]

San Miguel de Allende’s Cumpanio

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Last week, Mexico celebrated its 201st year of independence. In San Miguel de Allende, the conspirators Ignacio Allende and the Aldama brothers, hasta el copete (fed up) with the abuses of the Spanish colonial government, organized a revolt.   On September 16, 1810, co-conspirator Father Hidalgo, a parish priest in nearby Dolores Hidalgos rang out the rallying cry (el grito), signaling the start of the bloody battle that would rage more than 10 years. When the war ended, Mexico emerged tattered and torn. There was a staggering national identity problem in a country of criollos (creoles), peninsulares (native-born Spaniards), mestizos (mixed race) and indigenous people. The stories of my ancestors who lived through those years are forever lost in time, though I can't help but imagine what the Mexico of those ten years must have been like. The complex society that emerged--with its … [Read more...]